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HOW TO DO PAINTING NEW / OLD WOODWORK WITH SYNTHETIC ENAMEL PAINT

HOW TO DO PAINTING NEW WOODWORK WITH SYNTHETIC ENAMEL PAINT

Woodworks such as doors and windows can be painted or polished. In this section, we will examine the painting and in the next section, we will deal with the polishing of woodworks. Quality painting of new woodwork must be carried out by the following five preparations:

1. Removal of knots and preparation of the surface

2. Applying primer coat

3. Stopping and filling (filling the hole with putty)

4. Applying undercoat

5. Applying topcoats       

 

These steps are described below.

Removal of knots and preparation of the surface. The first function is to remove the knots and prepare the surface. Trees to be painted, such as doors and windows, should be well processed and free of discoloured membrane and adhesive or loose knots. The surface is prepared as follows. It must first be smoothed with abrasive paper and the projectile fibres removed. Any knots extending up to about 25 mm (1 inch) beyond the knot area should be applied thinly around it with business lines or blue subcut pure shellac knot.

 

If the area is small and the wood is not highly resinous instead of applying two coats of knotting, we apply one coat of shellac slightly pigmented with aluminium powder. The above method of knotting or killing knot is called patent knotting. (It can also be done by ordinary or size knotting, where we use a paste of red lead ground in water mixed with strong glue size applied hot on the knots.

 

Lime knotting consists of covering the knot with lime for 24 hours after which it is treated with ordinary knotting. Another easy method now widely practised is to fill the knot with Fevicol mixed with fine wood powder scraped from wood.)

 

Applying primer coat. After knotting, the second operation is to rub down the surface with sandpaper and apply the wood primer coat or sealer coat to fill the pores of the wood. This priming coat is generally applied before the woodwork is placed in position and is to be applied on all portions of the wood.

 

Stopping and filling. The third step is stopping and filling. It consists of rubbing down the primed surface and filling the holes with putty. (For high-class work, we use putty with one-third white lead and two-thirds ordinary putty). It is then rubbed down with sandpaper to a smooth surface.

 

Applying the undercoat and finishing coats. The fourth operation is applying the undercoat. After drying of the undercoat, the surface should be carefully rubbed down with sandpaper and wiped clean before the fifth operation of applying the finishing coats of paint. Generally, only two coats of paints (undercoat and finishing coats) are prescribed in ordinary works.

 

HOW TO DO PAINTING OLD WOODWORK WITH SYNTHETIC ENAMEL PAINT


Repainting of Old WoodWork

If the old paint is cracked and is in a perished condition, it can be removed by readymade paint removers available in the market or by traditional mixtures prescribed by PWD specifications given below. Thick layers are removed by blowlamp or a burning stove. Then it is painted as described above for new work.

Note: Some of the traditional prescriptions to remove old paint from painted wood are as follows:

 

(a) Mix 1 part of soft soap and 2 parts of potash in boiling water. Add to it 1 part of quick lime and apply this hot mixture on old paint and leave it for 24 hours. Wash with hot water to remove the old paint.

 

(b) Prepare a solution of 1 kg of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) in 5 litres of water. Rub this solution with a rag fixed on a stick (caustic soda attacks human skin). The paint gets dissolved and can be washed off.

 

(c) Make a creamy solution with 2 parts of quicklime and 1 part of washing soda. Apply it on the old paint and leave for an hour after which the paint can be easily removed.


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